Three South Korean Fashion Designers You Need To Know

BESFXXK is the brainchild of designers Bona Kim and Jae Hyuk Lim, who met while studying in London.BESFXXK

It’s tough to imagine a more thrilling fashion scene right now than Seoul’s. Though the youth-driven street style and fast fashion’s ubiquity initially sparked interest, it’s what’s been spotted on Seoul Fashion Week’s runways – which kicked off just a few years ago in 2015 – that’s captured the attention of the more serious style set (think editors and buyers). And like the city’s boundary-pushing street style, the Korean designers making waves are just as individualistic and diverse, spanning contemporary classics to highly conceptual and directional. Below, three exciting young Korean designers you should get to know.

Heta is a genderless line making waves with its fluid silhouettes and luxurious details.Heta

What: Heta

When: 2016

Who: Hoyoung Chi

Hoyoung Chi is the founder of Heta.Heta

Why: Chi studied menswear in school, and it didn’t take long before he landed at Kuho, Korea’s most famous, avant-garde womenswear designer. (His sharp skills got him scouted for a coveted internship.) Given his unique background, it was only a matter of time before he’d strike out on his own. For his brand name, Chi wanted something visually simple and audibly memorable. (The first h comes from his first name, and “eta” is the Greek word for h.) Though Heta began with luxurious menswear – “I was tired of cheap and simply made streetwear and kept asking why are there no fun clothes for men,” says Chi – this year, he decided to design with everyone in mind. “I’m playing with genderless silhouettes, like loose jackets and tops with straight fronts and flared backs. The looks are very fluid, and creative with no boundaries.” He cites Margiela, Raf Simons, and Ghesquiere as inspirations, and it’s no coincidence his fan base is similar to the creative visionaries he looks up to. “My customers are stylists who dress stars, twenty-something guys in the fashion industry, and gay men,” says Chi. “These people don’t follow the trends, they set them.”

EENK is rooted in classic, collectible designs with a twist.EENK

What: EENK

When: 2015

Who: Hyemee Lee

Hyemee Lee is the head designer of EENK.EENK

Why: In 2013, Lee kicked off an ambitious endeavor called the “Letter Project,” in which she released items every few months beginning with a different letter of the alphabet. (For example, she began with the letter b, and designed beanies. She’ll have completed her first collection when she reaches the letter a.) After her first few items become hits, Lee formally launched her her own brand in 2015 with the letter g, calling it EENK. (She loves traditional ink’s ability to convey and communicate, and put a twist on the word by adding the double e’s from her name.) Her customers might skew young (think twenty and thirty-somethings), but Lee says her brand is far from trend-driven. “My customers might be young, but they’re people who are confident, and proud of their identities,” says Lee. “Also, I’m a vintage lover and collector, so my foundation is rooted in classics – with a little unexpected thrown in.” It’s only fitting that her top-selling item is a chic and sleek iPhone case bearing a signature gold square handle.

BESFXXK takes inspiration from military garments, and are multi-functional, yet super stylish.BESFXXK

What: BESFXXK

When: 2016

Who: Bona Kim and Jae Hyuk Lim

Bona Kim and Jae Hyuk Lim are the design duo behind BESFXXK.BESFXXK

Why: Kim and Lim met while studying fashion at the London College of Fashion, and launched Besfxxk together in late 2016, to “come up with a new visual language,” says Lim. And it’s been a roller coaster experience for the intrepid duo – whose name is a combination of the word bespoke and f**k – ever since, from showing at Milan Fashion Week to having one of their jackets snatched up by Barney’s New York. Inspiration wise, the duo frequently reference military garments. And why? “Naturally, there’s so much functionality in these clothes,” says Lim. “And we like to think of different ways to make everyday garments more functional.” Much of their outerwear, for example, can be snapped, tied, or draped in different ways not only for a different aesthetic – but purpose as well. Upon first glance, many of BESFXXK’s designs look hyper-directional, if you examine closer, you’ll discover classic, timeless details. “Our work is where history and contemporary culture meet,” says Lim.

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Women's fashion location opens for business

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Women's fashion location opens for business  The Villages Daily Sun Full coverage

http://www.thevillagesdailysun.com/news/in_todays_daily_sun/women-s-fashion-location-opens-for-business/article_b0ea8dc8-947b-11e8-94c7-4bc309884d17.html

Fashion spotlight shines again for 1980s designer Dapper Dan

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Fashion spotlight shines again for 1980s designer Dapper Dan  The Philadelphia Tribune Full coverage

http://www.phillytrib.com/lifestyle/fashion-spotlight-shines-again-for-s-designer-dapper-dan/article_022917c1-77ec-55f9-80e1-71a2d5cb94c4.html

Fashion honchos flocking to see 'Crazy Rich Asians'

The fashion world is going nuts for “Crazy Rich Asians.”

At a Metrograph screening last week of the upcoming film, hosts included designers Prabal Gurung, Phillip Lim, Joseph Altuzarra, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim and Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow.

At another VIP screening by Andrew Saffir’s Cinema Society, Vogue called the film’s British-Malaysian star Henry Golding “effortlessly elegant.”

Also at the Whitby Hotel for the film were fashion insider Fern Mallis, “Black Panther” star Angela Bassett and Cornelia Guest.

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Fashion Nova conquered Instagram by embracing the “thirst trap”

Instagram is a performance space. It’s where untold numbers of young women and men, in search of attention, validation, or something else, go to show off their best sides—literally. It’s the natural habitat of the sexily posed, scantily clad portraits dubbed “thirst traps.”

For brands, meanwhile, it’s a powerful tool to advertise their wares and attract customers, thanks to its visual format and massive user base. And no brand has better used that tool than Fashion Nova, a clothing label that has quickly exploded, in large part thanks to the voluptuously curvy, racially diverse models, celebrities, and regular customers whose pictures populate its Instagram, often in sultry poses proven to elicit “likes” and comments.

The company hasn’t revealed its sales, but in an interview with WWD (paywall) last year, founder and CEO Richard Saghian said it grew 600% in 2017. It also ranked among Google’s top-searched fashion brands by millennials, beating out labels such as Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent.

Fashion Nova built its massive fanbase partly by satisfying its customers’ desire for attention—sharing their selfies and shouting them out on Instagram. There they reside alongside celebrities such as Kylie Jenner, who wore the brand’s $18 skin-tight romper to Coachella, and rapper Cardi B, another of the brand’s well-known ambassadors.

Fashion Nova was Instagram’s top-performing brand in earned-media value (EMV) through the first five months of 2018, according to a new report by InfluencerDB, an influencer-marketing platform, based on an analysis of more than 900,000 Instagram posts. EMV is the equivalent of what it would cost a brand in traditional advertising to generate the same level of publicity, and it’s measured through all the mentions, likes, and comments coming from its fans.

The brand finished well ahead of far larger players, including Zara and H&M. It had an EMV of about $125 million, coming from 12,468 influencers who mentioned the brand, about 700 of which were paid. (Fashion Nova has noted before that it works with 3,000 to 5,000 influencers.)

Fashion Nova’s success is directly related to its willingness to bring its fans the attention they seek, InfluencerDB found. “Fashion Nova encourages followers to share their everyday as well as sexy looks for reposts on the Fashion Nova account, which is highly desirable to an audience of ‘hardcore fans’ and those looking to grow their own base following,” says Robert Levenhagen, CEO and cofounder of InfluencerDB. “One example of where they’ve done this, is by promoting provocative mirror selfies and pictures showcasing a lot of skin which may not typically be reposted for most brands, but Fashion Nova uses it to create an avalanche of highly loyal brand ambassadors, for free.”

The brand’s success has as much to do with its digital savvy and understanding of its customers as the actual clothes it sells, which tend to be cheap fast fashion. But they cater to women many other brands still fail to design thoughtfully for—those with full hips and butts and busts. Fashion Nova’s clothes tend to highlight these features, and instead of relegating larger women to shapeless, matronly designs, their clothing for these customers is similarly fitted and shows plenty of skin.

“In other words, don’t alienate your customer,” Noël Duan wrote for Quartz. “Embrace them. The brand’s Instagram, for example, re-posts about 30 outfits from customers’ Instagrams every week, in addition to engaging on every single photo in which the brand is tagged. All of them!”

The message broadcast by the Fashion Nova site and its Instagram page is that you don’t have to be a skinny white model to be desirable. Curves are sexy. All skin tones are beautiful. And self-confidence is the ultimate thirst trap.

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Fashion Nova conquered Instagram by embracing the “thirst trap”

Instagram is a performance space. It’s where untold numbers of young women and men, in search of attention, validation, or something else, go to show off their best sides—literally. It’s the natural habitat of the sexily posed, scantily clad portraits dubbed “thirst traps.”

For brands, meanwhile, it’s a powerful tool to advertise their wares and attract customers, thanks to its visual format and massive user base. And no brand has better used that tool than Fashion Nova, a clothing label that has quickly exploded, in large part thanks to the voluptuously curvy, racially diverse models, celebrities, and regular customers whose pictures populate its Instagram, often in sultry poses proven to elicit “likes” and comments.

The company hasn’t revealed its sales, but in an interview with WWD (paywall) last year, founder and CEO Richard Saghian said it grew 600% in 2017. It also ranked among Google’s top-searched fashion brands by millennials, beating out labels such as Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent.

Fashion Nova built its massive fanbase partly by satisfying its customers’ desire for attention—sharing their selfies and shouting them out on Instagram. There they reside alongside celebrities such as Kylie Jenner, who wore the brand’s $18 skin-tight romper to Coachella, and rapper Cardi B, another of the brand’s well-known ambassadors.

Fashion Nova was Instagram’s top-performing brand in earned-media value (EMV) through the first five months of 2018, according to a new report by InfluencerDB, an influencer-marketing platform, based on an analysis of more than 900,000 Instagram posts. EMV is the equivalent of what it would cost a brand in traditional advertising to generate the same level of publicity, and it’s measured through all the mentions, likes, and comments coming from its fans.

The brand finished well ahead of far larger players, including Zara and H&M. It had an EMV of about $125 million, coming from 12,468 influencers who mentioned the brand, about 700 of which were paid. (Fashion Nova has noted before that it works with 3,000 to 5,000 influencers.)

Fashion Nova’s success is directly related to its willingness to bring its fans the attention they seek, InfluencerDB found. “Fashion Nova encourages followers to share their everyday as well as sexy looks for reposts on the Fashion Nova account, which is highly desirable to an audience of ‘hardcore fans’ and those looking to grow their own base following,” says Robert Levenhagen, CEO and cofounder of InfluencerDB. “One example of where they’ve done this, is by promoting provocative mirror selfies and pictures showcasing a lot of skin which may not typically be reposted for most brands, but Fashion Nova uses it to create an avalanche of highly loyal brand ambassadors, for free.”

The brand’s success has as much to do with its digital savvy and understanding of its customers as the actual clothes it sells, which tend to be cheap fast fashion. But they cater to women many other brands still fail to design thoughtfully for—those with full hips and butts and busts. Fashion Nova’s clothes tend to highlight these features, and instead of relegating larger women to shapeless, matronly designs, their clothing for these customers is similarly fitted and shows plenty of skin.

“In other words, don’t alienate your customer,” Noël Duan wrote for Quartz. “Embrace them. The brand’s Instagram, for example, re-posts about 30 outfits from customers’ Instagrams every week, in addition to engaging on every single photo in which the brand is tagged. All of them!”

The message broadcast by the Fashion Nova site and its Instagram page is that you don’t have to be a skinny white model to be desirable. Curves are sexy. All skin tones are beautiful. And self-confidence is the ultimate thirst trap.

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Streets ahead: meet the new generation of female bosses

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Streets ahead: meet the new generation of female bosses  The Guardian Full coverage

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/gallery/2018/jul/28/streets-ahead-meet-the-new-generation-of-female-bosses

Jadwal Penutupan Gerbang Tol Jakarta Selama Asian Games 2018

Bola.com, Jakarta - Asian Games 2018 akan diselenggarakan di Jakarta dan Palembang pada 18 Agustus hingga 1 September 2018. Untuk mengurai kemacetan, Direktorat Lalu lintas Polda Metro Jaya mengatur jadwal sistem buka tutup sejumlah gerbang tol Jakarta selama berlangsungnya pesta olahraga empat tahunan tersebut.

Direktur Lalu Lintas Polda Metro Jaya, Kombes Yusuf, mengatakan penutupan gerbang tol ini tidak bersifat permanen. Penutupan pun hanya untuk gerbang tol yang dekat dengan venue Asian Games.

"Hanya sementara. Siapa yang bilang permanen? Tidak permanen, kan dibuka, ada waktunya dari pukul 06.00 WIB sampai pukul 17.00 WIB, cuma memang agak lama," kata Yusuf, Kamis (26/7/2018), yang dikutip dari Kompas.com.

Sistem baru ini masih dalam tahap uji coba dan bakal dikaji lebih dalam oleh pihak terkait. Namun, penutupan gerbang tol sejatinya bakal dibagi menjadi dua jadwal, yaitu pukul 06.00 - 17.00 WIB, serta pukul 12.00 - 21.00 WIB.

Berikut ini adalah gerbang tol yang ditutup pada pukul 06.00 hingga 17.00 WIB:

1. Ancol Barat 
2. Jembatan Tiga 1
3. Angke 2
4. Tanjung Duren
5. Ramp Rumah Sakit Harapan Kita
6. Slipi 2
7. Podomoro
8. Rawamangun
9. Pedati
10. TMII

Kemudian, gerbang tol yang ditutup pada pukul 12.00 sampai pukul 21.00 WIB, selama Asian Games 2018.

1. Gedong Panjang 2
2. embatan Tiga 2
3. Angke 1
4. Jelambar 1
5. Slipi 1
6. Sunter
7. Jatinegara
8. Kebon Nanas
9. TMII

Ribuan Penari Gelar Latihan Jelang Pembukaan Asian Games 2018 (Liputan6 Pagi)

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Week-long fashion event from August 12 to August 19

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Week-long fashion event from August 12 to August 19  fox2now.com Full coverage

https://fox2now.com/2018/07/28/week-long-fashion-event-from-august-12-to-august-19/

Jadwal Kontra Persikabo Sudah Tetap, Persija Jakarta Pilih Fokus Lawan Arema FC

Persija Jakarta sudah mendapat kepastian venue dan jadwal untuk laga 128 besar Piala Indonesia 2018, melawan Persikabo Kabupaten Bogor. Rencananya, laga itu akan dilaksanakan pada 9 Agustus mendatang.

Laga ini sempat mengalami ketidakpastian karena Persikabo kesulitan untuk mendapatkan stadion, sehubungan dengan adanya Asian Games 2018 dan stadion di kawasan Bogor digunakan untuk venur latihan tim.

"Merujuk surat tersebut, maka ada perubahan jadwal pertandingan Piala Indonesia 2018 babak 128 besar Zona 05 antara Persikabo Bogor melawan Persija Jakarta yang sedianya berlangsung 1 Agustus 2018 berubah menjadi 9 Agustus 2018, di Stadion Sultan Agung,” tulis surat PSSI kepada Persija.

Terkait

• Ismed Sofyan Inginkan Persija Jakarta Tetap Di Papan Atas
• Shahar Ginanjar Semringah Dengan Debut Positif
• Kiper Persija Jakarta Bikin Simon McMenemy Kecele

Dengan kepastian tersebut, pelatih Persija Stefano Cugurra 'Teco' lebih mengedepankan laga paling dekat melawan Arema FC pada pekan lanjutan Liga 1 2018, yang akan digelar empat hari sebelum partai kontra Persikabo, di Stadion Kanjuruhan.

"5 Agustus kami akan menghadapi tuan rumah Arema, itu game sangat penting bagi kita. Kami harus bisa memenangkan laga ini agar terus berada di papan atas, baru setelah itu kami memikirkan strategi apa untuk melawan Persikabo,” beber Teco.

 

A post shared by Goal Indonesia (@goalcomindonesia) on Jul 28, 2018 at 1:01am PDT

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• Jadwal TV
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Fashion spotlight once again shines for '80s star Dapper Dan

NEW YORK — In hip-hop's golden era, the artists responsible for rap's distinctive sound went to Harlem fashion designer Dapper Dan for the period's equally distinctive look.

Now the fashion groundbreaker, who spent more than two decades out of the public eye, is back.

He's got a partnership with Gucci and the likes of Beyonce among those wearing his designs, like the logoed jacket that is part of her costumes in her current tour with her husband, Jay-Z.

It's a situation that Dapper Dan calls "amazing" and that observers say is a reflection of how hip-hop and street style have influenced global fashion, with him among the innovators.

The couturier, whose real name is Daniel Day, now has a new Gucci-sponsored workshop in a Harlem brownstone, not far from the now-closed 125th Street boutique that once clothed Salt-N-Pepa, Eric B. & Rakim and LL Cool J.

His operation now is a different one from the 24-hour-per-day shop that turned out custom-made jackets for those early rap superstars, but Dapper Dan said some things haven't changed.

As a young man with a reputation for sharp dressing, "my first intention was to transform myself through clothes," he said. "I took that same concept in opening up a store, transforming people. When Gucci came along, I saw the opportunity to do this element of transformation on a larger scale."

Dapper Dan's outfits in the 1980s were original designs embossed with designer logos from Gucci, Fendi and Louis Vuitton among others — without the brands' permission.

He saw the pull of luxury and brand names and came up with the idea of putting the logos people coveted from bags and luggage on clothes to be worn.

"None of the big brands were making coats and jackets. That wasn't available," Dapper Dan said. That "left the whole field open for me."

His logo-draped fabrics also were used in everything from suits to car interiors, in styles and silhouettes that the labels themselves weren't even doing.

"This is kind of the story of hip-hop," said Erik Nielson, an associate professor at the University of Richmond, in Richmond, Virginia, who teaches African-American pop culture. "Dapper Dan took something that was there. He arguably made it better. ... He showed the brands all these possibilities it's clear they had never really considered."

Dapper Dan insists what he was doing wasn't a knock-off. He wasn't like the people who were making counterfeit bags and belts. His creations were "knock-ups," he said.

"I was creating things that when somebody wore it, they knew, 'Oh, no, Gucci doesn't even make pants and jackets and overcoats and things,'" at least not the way he was doing it.

By the late 1980s, when his clients also included Mike Tyson, who got into a fight with another fighter at Dapper Dan's store, the brands had started to bring their power to bear against him. There were legal orders and raids, including one by Fendi, whose lawyer for anti-counterfeiting efforts was Sonia Sotomayor, now on the U.S. Supreme Court.

After his store closed in 1992 because of the legal pressures, he said, he went "underground," with private clients including Floyd Mayweather.

The Gucci partnership came about after Gucci's creative director, Alessandro Michele, put on the runway in May 2017 a jacket that was strikingly reminiscent of one Dapper Dan created in the 1980s using another brand's logo.

The move prompted social media furor from those who demanded credit go to Dapper Dan and critiqued the fashion house for celebrating a look its original designer had been chastised for creating.

Gucci said the jacket was an homage.

But then it went a step further and reached out to Dapper Dan to see whether he would work with the brand officially.

The Gucci-Dapper Dan collection launched in mid-July, available in Gucci stores and online. It's inspired by Dapper Dan's work from the 1980s and includes track suits and jackets that echo pieces he made then with price points going as high as several thousand dollars.

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Fashion spotlight once again shines for '80s star Dapper Dan

NEW YORK (AP) — Harlem designer Dapper Dan spent years in the 1980s with a client list that included the who's who of hip-hop before legal issues over the clothes he was making got in the way.

Now the fashion groundbreaker is back after more than two decades out of the public eye. He's got a partnership with Gucci and the likes of superstar entertainer Beyonce among those wearing his designs.

It's a situation Dapper Dan calls "amazing" and observers say is a reflection of how hip-hop and street style have influenced global fashion, with Dapper Dan among the innovators.

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Fashion magazine 'Nicola' a huge hit with teens seeking 'cute' overload

TOKYO -- The slump in magazine sales is not an issue for fashion icon "Nicola," which serves as a guide for the modern lifestyles of Japanese teens, and is supported enormously by elementary and junior high school girls seeking "kawaii," or anything cute.

A 12-year-old girl from the city of Nagoya, busy with extracurricular activities held five times a week and ballet lessons, loves the time she spends reading Nicola. The cover is filled with pretty fashion models and catchphrases like, "The No. 1 teen magazine that makes all junior high school girls cute!" The pages are filled up with tiny letters containing a lot of information, which makes it hard for the magazine to be read in a day.

Outfits and accessories introduced in the monthly magazine are set at reasonable prices. "We always buy clothes similar to the ones in Nicola, whenever I go out shopping with my mom," the girl cheerfully stated. The magazine, which costs around 500 yen a month, is an essential item as a fashion statement.

Nicola, published since 1997 by Shinchosha Publishing Co., has seen a steady boost in business, while rival magazines continue to shut down. In the face of adversity, Nicola sold about an average of 149,000 copies a month in the first half of 2017, gaining the edge on "Seventeen," a long-running teen model magazine aiming at a slightly higher age group. It also led sales of other teen publications and ranked fifth among all women's fashion magazines. Nicola sold around 153,000 copies a month in the second half of 2017, resulting in a sales increase for three consecutive terms. The February issue released at the end of 2017 almost sold out.

When asked for the reasons for the magazine's success, Tomoka Kojima, who became the chief editor of Nicola last year after working 14 years in its editorial department, explained, "It may be because we think deeply from a readers' point of view, to create a true-to-life magazine they can relate to." Models appearing on the pages of Nicola, called "Nicomo," are the interface which supports the feeling of familiarity between readers and the magazine.

The models are chosen from among those aged from the fifth-grade of elementary school to the third-year of junior high through auditions, and they cannot be doing any show business work. After getting hired, they have to abide by the rules to prioritize their studies over other activities. Since many of the models come from regional areas, they typically gather in Tokyo on Friday evening, shoot on the weekends, and finish work on Sunday evening. Kojima commented, "I think readers may feel that regular girls are working as our models. In fact, articles featuring ordinary clothes, personal items and the daily lives of Nicomo are very popular."

One of the appealing aspects of Nicola is the cooperation between Nicomo and female editors over coordinating outfits. Surveys made up of 30 standard A4 pages on average are sent to Nicomo every month, and they reply with answers written from top to bottom.

The feelings of readers yearning to become a Nicomo someday have also played an important role in the increased sales. Last year, 14,734 teens signed up for auditions, indicating that around 10 percent of readers are applying for such roles.

Success stories of Nicomo who later became popular actress like Yui Aragaki, Non, Haruna Kawaguchi and Mei Nagano, are winning the young girls' hearts.

Rika Shiiki, having detailed knowledge on trends among young girls as a college student and also as the president of "JCJK Chosatai" (Junior and high school girls' expedition team), which sends "Japanese kawaii" to the world through the internet, stated, "Cute and sincere girls with black hair are popular. There is a demand for classical cuteness." None of these elements makes parents frown, unlike the former trend of "gyaru," with heavy makeup and dyed hair. Girls looking a bit too young to become models appear in Nicola.

Tsubasa Masuwaka, who works as a model and TV personality, was very surprised to see young models quick to find a style that appealed to all tastes. She worked as an amateur model for a teen magazine herself, and was so charismatic that outfits and accessories she wore reportedly became huge hits. However, she commented, "When we were working as models, we made many mistakes. We tried on outfits we thought looked fashionable, by gathering information from magazines and by word of mouth. But when we appeared in magazines, it ended up making us look fat, or ugly because of makeup, and was disastrous." She feels that her experience of repeated failure has really helped her. The readers at the time also supported her trial and error process.

Meanwhile, Masuwaka feels that young models and their supporters today act like professionals from the start. She stated, "Models are judged on social media by many people. There is positive feedback if they successfully express themselves, but they also receive a lot of negative comments. I believe that is why the models are happy to not do anything out of the ordinary. I think it's all right that the models waver over what to do and even take risks, to the point of being told by their mothers, 'It's so embarrassing to walk around with such a look.' It seems very difficult to make a choice that would be appreciated by many as society is overloaded with information."

Readers' parents are also playing an indispensable role in Nicola's success. Kojima commented, "Nicola sells best in bookstores at large shopping malls located in suburban areas. The outfits introduced (in the magazine) can be bought at shopping malls, but are probably bought in cooperation with the parents, since it is difficult to buy them with the girls' pocket money. Many of the young readers seem to be using the internet also under the supervision of their parents."

There is an article in the newest August issue, introducing outfits from various brands that could be bought online, aiming at teens living in rural areas. Most of the prices are set at around 10,000 yen per item.

Shiiki agrees that one of the reasons making Nicola popular is the positive relationship between parents and their daughters. "Modern-day children up to the end of high school have a close relationship with their parents. They share accessories and introduce their boyfriends or girlfriends without hesitation. Meanwhile, there are more cases where parents are using social media to promote their daughters, even in a more casual manner than mothers in the past, who acted like stage managers for their daughters working as professional entertainers. Readers of Nicola represent a positive relationship between parents and daughters," Shiiki analyzed.

Recently, there has been an atmosphere for people to shift toward the way of doing things that is seen as correct and which many others support. Teens may be trying to find hints of this through the pages of Nicola.

(Japanese original by Shoko Tamura, Evening Edition Department)

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From bananas and bumbags to superfoods and the Shiggy: this week's fashion trends

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From bananas and bumbags to superfoods and the Shiggy: this week's fashion trends  The Guardian Full coverage

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/27/fashion-trends-bananas-bumbags-superfoods-the-shiggy

Summer fashion tips

With school out and the summer sun in full swing, it's time to have some fun with fashion. I've compiled a list of fun, flirty and fabulous fashion statements that are sure to transform your image from dreary to dreamy.*

1. Sassy sandals
Sassy sandals is for all you quirky kids who want to apply a new twist to a tired trend. I actually discovered this look when raiding my local Payless shortly after they declared bankruptcy. What I did was stealthily finagle some knock off Nike Airs off the shelf and slide them into my trench coat pocket. Next, I bought some shoelaces that I didn't need, so as to distract the employees from my petty theft. I then exited the store (remember, to make this work you will have to act as casual as humanly possible) and strode into the A.C. Moore next door, whereupon I acquired a pair of fabric scissors. I was then able to deftly cut the knock off Nike Airs so that my toes stuck out of the top: an unexpected yet effective way of saying, "Death toe the establishment!" What resulted was an incredibly tasteful, inexpensive and most importantly, sassy look.

2. Rollin' in Dough
This look is great in that it requires only two things of the wearer: number one, a sizable amount of dough (Pillsbury is a go-to, but really any kind is a viable option), and number two, the physical ability to roll. I know you may be thinking, "What? Rolling in dough isn't a fashion statement!" But that's exactly it. The non-statement is an incredibly succinct statement in itself: overthrow the bourgeoisie! By simply rolling in dough, you're essentially saying,
"Screw off with your ‘avant-garde’ money dress, Lady Gaga, and take a look at my broke, naked ass! Which is covered in real — not metaphorical — dough, by the way. I'm real, and all you are is play dough."

Plus it's cheap, and a great look for birthday parties.

3. Hunka Hunka Burn in Hell
This is a beautifully masochistic look for all my emo friends out there who want some preventable pain in their lives. First, you should make sure that the weather forecast shows a UV index of 10. You will then want to cancel all plans between the hours of 6:00 a.m. and 8:30 p.m.; if you go about this look correctly, the only things you see today will be the sun and the ground where your eyes meet it. You're also going to have to wear something that exposes a lot of skin: either a bathing or a birthday suit. Then, simply pick a spot with not too much overgrowth where the sun’s cancer rays can roast you at maximum effect. Turn over every couple hours, or when you feel your skin has been satisfactorily singed. By sunset, your skin will flaunt a beautiful, feisty red or orange! Our commander in chief will certainly be flattered that he is honored in this growing fashion trend.

4. Censorchic
Last but certainly not least, censorchic is coined for its coy approach to a flirtatious look. What I did to assemble this piece was travel to my local Home Depot (although any home improvement store should work) and pick up a slab of plywood, gray or black spray paint, or some dutiful double sided tape. I then proceeded to enter the bathroom, not in order to relieve myself, but so that I may take off my constrictive clothes without being kicked out of the store. Whilst in the Home Depot bathroom, I covered the plywood plank with spray paint and used the double sided tape to apply the slab to my body. Readers following this fashion tip should place the plywood over any body part they consider slightly risqué for a playful, feminist fashion statement. 

If you follow any of these fashion tips, you're sure to make a statement without draining your bank account. I hope this article inspired you to tap into the undiscovered fashionista within you!

*The author does not claim responsibility for any negative repercussions one might face as a result of these fashion tips, including the violation of any theft or indecent exposure laws. WEAR AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Erin Clancy is a Humor Columnist for The Cavalier Daily. She can be reached at humor@cavalierdaily.com. 

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Fase I Hampir Rampung, PT MRT Jakarta Persiapkan Fase II

Laporan Wartawan Tribunnews.com, Brian Priambudi

TRIBUNNEWS.COM, JAKARTA - PT MRT Jakarta mengatakan progres pengerjaan MRT Fase I sudah mencapai 95% per Juli 2018.

Direktur Konstruksi PT MRT Jakarta Silvia Halim mengatakan saat ini pihaknya tengah menggarap engineering design untuk MRT Fase II.

Baca: Imigran Sudan 4 Hari Sembunyi di Campervan, Baru Ketahuan saat Sudah Tempuh Jarak Lebih dari 500 Km

"Mengenai Fase II, sedang kita alami basic engineering design. Kita sudah mempunyai konsultan yang sedang menyiapkan teknikal design dari semua stasiun dan tunnel. Fase II nanti dari Bunderan HI sampai Kampung Bandan," ujar Silvia saat jumpa pers di Kantor MRT Jakarta, Kamis (26/7/2018).

Untuk prosesnya, Silvia menjelaskan saat konsultan sedang menyiapkan dokumen tender untuk kontrak.

Selain itu PT MRT Jakarta juga sedang mensosialisasikan proyek tersebut dengan berbagai stakeholders baik Pemerintah Provinsi DKI Jakarta maupun masyarakat yang berada di koridor Fase II.

"Kita juga sedang dorong loan agreementnya. Pembahasan sudah bergulir dan cukup intens. Targetnya bisa di tanda-tangani di awal Agustus," ujar Silvia.

Dengan ditandatanganinya loan agreement tersebut, memungkinkan PT MRT untuk berkontrak untuk paket kontrak pertama CP200 pembangunan gardu listrik MRT Fase II.

"Setelah itu satu persatu paket kontrak akan kami tenderkan. Targetnya pada pertengahan 2020 semua kontrak Fase II akan sudah tertender dan kita sudah bisa mulai pembangunan," jelasnya.

Sementara itu untuk penetapan lokasi Fase II juga sudah didiskusikan dan ditargetkan pada awal Agustus sudah terdapat penetapan lokasi.

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How Can Fashion Embrace the Circular Economy?

OXFORDSHIRE, United Kingdom — Despite the wealth of reports finding that millennials and members of Generation Z say they prefer fashion made in a more ethical and less environmentally destructive way, they can’t seem to get enough of ultra-fast fashion brands like Boohoo and low-price private-label basics from retailers like Amazon. Clearly, for many, price and speed trump conscience.

The dilemma — and how a shift to a circular fashion system could help — was just one of many issues discussed at VOICES, BoF's annual gathering for big thinkers in partnership with QIC Global Real Estate, in December last year. Speakers and guests gathered in five salons designed to spark debate and explore resolutions for some of the most important issues facing the industry today. Each VOICES salon addressed a central question. Among them: “How Can Fashion Embrace the Circular Economy?” Held under the Chatham House Rule, the salon ensured anonymity while creating an intimate, candid environment.

At today’s pace, the textiles economy is projected to release over 20 million tonnes of plastic micro-fibres into the ocean by 2050, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, an organisation dedicated to accelerating the adoption of a circular economy. The term describes a restorative and regenerative system that uses innovation to cut waste and minimise negative impact, replacing the traditional linear model in which products are cheaply made, consumed and then disposed.

“Just using less is not a solution [though]; it just buys you time,” says fashion consultant Julie Gilhart, one of the passionate pioneers who introduced many in the fashion industry to sustainability issues in the early years. “It’s like a crisis situation right now. The way we do things has to change and it isn’t going to be comfortable.”

Where does this leave fashion? Business leaders from the biggest luxury conglomerates, department stores and ready-to-wear brands joined the salon's facilitators — fashion consultant Julie Gilhart and Andrew Morlet, chief executive of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation — to discuss fashion’s belated embrace of the circular economy.

To kick off the proceedings, Morlet explained how the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s research has shown that such a system is possible without regulatory change or a shift in consumer behaviour thanks to its profit generating potential. New business models based on reusable or recycled raw materials can pay off in long-term revenue by reducing the costs of production or creating new revenue streams, such as rentals or other new forms of ownership. Such a shift is, of course, challenging to implement, and has long concerned business leaders.

Executives from fashion sectors as diverse as manufacturing, retail, design and the media then chimed into the debate. Seven key points emerged from the discussion:

1. Don’t count on consumers to lead the charge. The industry is still in service to consumers, many of whom value price, novelty, quality and design more than they value the ethical considerations of their purchasing decisions. Therefore, the industry cannot take direction from consumers or wait for them to shift their purchasing habits. “Consumers aren’t right on this one, it’s going to have to be up to businesses that understand that and if they want to reduce and reuse,” said one participant. “If the consumer doesn’t care, does that suddenly give you permission to pollute?” said another guest. “Of course it doesn’t.”

2. Some consumers are still confused about what sustainability means. Everyone in the industry — particularly the media — has an important role to play in educating consumers better. “If someone understands the difference of a dollar to a cotton farmer… then we start to change them,” said one participant. “Some people who say they care about those values don’t understand what they are doing when they are voting for cheap products [with their wallets].” At the same time, some believe that it is important to avoid making consumers feel overly guilty, because their choices do not include any single brand or company that is truly sustainable. “There is not a single fashion company in the world that can make that claim,” said a guest.

3. Consider reframing what consumption means. Several participants advocated for “reframing the way people participate in the [fashion] system.” The growing rental market is one way to achieve that, especially for uniforms and more basic or timeless daywear. “There are items that have value no matter what the season,” said one participant. As for trend-driven or seasonal pieces, one option is a “tiered system for borrowing,” as one guest described it, where in-season pieces get filtered either through rentals or through the resale market from luxury shoppers to “fashion followers” who are content to pick up on trends after they debut on the runways. “We know that there are people that look for ‘now and next’ and we know they are willing to pay a premium,” the participant explained.

4. Concerns about job elimination. How does the circular economy create jobs in new areas? This was a point of concern at the salon for several participants who are worried about the impact of automation or decreased consumption on the industry. Automation will make production more efficient, but at what cost to the workforce? Or will increased recycling processes offset some of the potential job loss?

5. Not every consumer can afford to be conscious. Is caring about sustainable fashion only something that the wealthy can afford? To what degree ethically responsible purchases — typically more expensive than mass market selections — are feasible options for shoppers of lower socioeconomic backgrounds than higher net worth consumers is unclear. While many argue that sustainability — from organic food to hybrid cars — is a luxury reserved for the rich, others say it is in fact the middle classes who are becoming better to reducing and reusing in effective, practical ways.

6. Finding a way to get started is sometimes the hardest part. What are the steps that even a small brand can take to reboot its approach to materials, waste and recycling without negatively affecting the bottom line? This question was a key concern for most participants who felt isolated in trying to begin tackling sustainability in a way that wouldn’t endanger their businesses. Some felt it was up to the industry’s largest players to take large public steps that “start to shake the economics of the system” and “bring others along.” Others took matters into their own hands, taking small but meaningful steps to reduce packaging or recycle hangers by shipping them to other countries or donating them to community organisations.

7. Collaboration is key. There is no silver bullet to sustainability and, “because no single actor can actually shift the system, collaboration becomes essential,” said one participant. “We need to find ways of creating new forms of cross-industry coordination that just doesn’t exist today,” said another. Finally, transparency with industry peers and consumers was called out as an essential point. “[The industry] better do something now or you are going to get caught with your pants down in five years or less,” said one guest.

To learn more about VOICES, BoF's annual gathering for big thinkers, visit our VOICES website, where you can find all the details on our invitation-only global gathering in November, in partnership with QIC Global Real Estate.

Related Articles:

Dame Ellen MacArthur on Building Momentum for Sustainability in Fashion

Op-Ed | An Alternative To Consumerism Does Exist: The Performance Economy

How Fashion Can Empower Girls

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The bright side: why women fell out of love with black

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The bright side: why women fell out of love with black  The Guardian Full coverage

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/26/the-bright-side-why-women-fell-out-of-love-with-black

Meet The First Fashion Designer To Adopt Provenance's Blockchain Service

Martina Spetlova AW18/19Photo courtesy of Martina Spetlova

London-based, Czech designer Martina Spetlova has become the first clothing label to integrate Provenance's blockchain technology platform across her collection. Spetlova insists “it’s more about stories”, cutting through the technical jargon and focusing on the benefit to consumers.

Provenance was set up by tech designer and engineer Jessi Baker in 2013 to build a trusted system to make supply chains more transparent. To date they’ve helped thousands of food brands gain the trust of consumers by allowing them to see where their purchase has come from. Now, since conducting a pilot case study with knitwear label Martine Jarlgaard, they are tackling fashion labels too.

“It’s easy for smaller brands and someone who is just starting out,” explains Spetlova on the complexity of fashion supply chains. “A designer has so many suppliers, it’s quite hard for big businesses to apply it unless they make some massive changes.”

Spetlova has gradually been making these changes within her brand over the past couple of years in order to become more sustainable and add more engaging stories into her product. She works with chrome-free leather, a less toxic tanning process which helps protect workers and water supplies, which is handwoven by a collective of refugee craftspeople in Turkey in partnership with NGO Small Project Instanbul. She’s also integrated fabric made from recycled plastic bottles into her work and is looking to use peace silk in the future. As a result of being more selective, she’s narrowed down her number of suppliers and manufacturers to just five.

It’s impossible to imagine larger brands being able to claim the same. It’s one of the unique ways in which Spetlova makes her brand, which is stocked in Selfridges and quirky boutiques including Machine-A in London and Odd92 in New York, stand out from the competition. Provenance is helping her do this by neatly packaging the information into a wash-proof chip which is stored inside the clothing and can be scanned with a phone camera to unlock a link detailing the clothing’s journey. The link can also be shared online as a way to provide this information for consumers who are curious without cluttering the page. “Unless you really want to know, you don’t need to know that this zip has been delivered from YKK to Martina's studio on that day, but it’s more about working with communities where you can read about where they’re based, you can read their story, see pictures, it’s a little bit more of an emotional attachment to the pieces,” explains Spetlova.

While her first collection to fully integrate Provenance won’t hit stores until October, she says the response so far has been one of interest and intrigue. “Even buyers who wouldn’t ordinarily buy Martina Spetlova, they were interested in the technology,” she says of presenting the upcoming collection to trade. For buyers, the appeal of having so much brand information so easily available on the shop floor without the need for sales assistants to remember it all will certainly appeal.

Spetlova pays a monthly fee to use the Provenance platform, as do her suppliers who must create their own account and profile, but convincing them hasn’t been hard: “Smaller studios and companies like it a bit more because it’s also a good marketing tool,” she says. With multiple people contributing, and crucially unable to edit and change the information that’s input, it’s a far more advanced, detailed and trustworthy alternative to a “made in” label. The person who buys the garment can also be connected with the designer directly for repairs and they can add themselves into the chain to show the next stages of the garment’s life. This part becomes even more interesting if the garment is passed on to multiple wearers and it makes the future of authenticating vintage fashion potentially a whole lot easier.

The buzz in fashion around blockchain has largely circulated around problem solving. The possibilities of verifying designer goods and certifying sustainable supply chains is appealing to the industry but Spetlova’s reasons for being one of the first to adopt it seem far simpler than that. “At the moment it’s an exciting time for sustainability in fashion and there’s lots of innovative things. I’ve always been into sustainability but when technology comes into it, it’s even more exciting because you can be a sustainable brand and be an innovative brand,” she says enthusiastically. "I’m sure there’s going to be more designers using it from next season.”

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Ivanka Trump's loyalty to her dad has ruined her fashion line. What a surprise

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Ivanka Trump's loyalty to her dad has ruined her fashion line. What a surprise  The Guardian Jimmy Kimmel Celebrates the End of Ivanka Trump's Fashion Brand  New York Times A Giddy Colbert Dances on the Grave of Ivanka Trump's Fashion Brand  Vanity Fair Full coverage

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/25/ivanka-trumps-loyalty-to-her-dad-has-ruined-her-fashion-line-what-a-surprise

Ivanka Trump's loyalty to her dad has ruined her fashion line. What a surprise

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Ivanka Trump's loyalty to her dad has ruined her fashion line. What a surprise  The Guardian Jimmy Kimmel Celebrates the End of Ivanka Trump's Fashion Brand  New York Times Ivanka Trump is shutting down her fashion brand  WRAL.com Full coverage

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/25/ivanka-trumps-loyalty-to-her-dad-has-ruined-her-fashion-line-what-a-surprise

Best of Late Night

Jimmy Kimmel Celebrates the End of Ivanka Trump’s Fashion Brand

Image

With Ivanka Trump’s fashion line closing, Jimmy Kimmel sounded a note of optimism: “The good news is that no American jobs will be lost.”CreditABC

By Giovanni Russonello

• July 25, 2018

Welcome to Best of Late Night, a rundown of the previous night’s highlights that lets you sleep — and lets us get paid to watch comedy. If you’re interested in hearing from The Times regularly about great TV, sign up for our Watching newsletter and get recommendations straight to your inbox.

‘No American Jobs Will Be Lost’

Ivanka Trump announced on Tuesday that she was shutting down her fashion brand. Commentators from across the political spectrum had accused her of having a conflict of interest, since she also serves as an adviser to her father, the president.

Jimmy Kimmel and Seth Meyers both celebrated the news, attacking Trump for using cheap foreign labor to create her garments.

“Wow, a Trump business failing — who would have ever guessed that something like this could possibly ever happen?” — JIMMY KIMMEL

“The good news is that no American jobs will be lost, because almost every piece of her clothing was made overseas.” — JIMMY KIMMEL

“Ivanka Trump announced today that she is closing her fashion brand. And look, I know it’s tempting to make jokes, but please — thousands of kids are out of a job.” — SETH MEYERS

CreditVideo by The Late Show With Stephen Colbert

Stephen Colbert took things a bit further.

“Today it was announced that Ivanka Trump is closing her namesake fashion brand. Yeah, she’s closing down her namesake fashion brand because she wants to spend more time with her namesake fascism brand.” — STEPHEN COLBERT

Russia and the Dems?

President Trump tweeted on Tuesday that he was “very concerned” that Russia might meddle in the midterm elections — and if it does, he said, it will be on behalf of the Democrats.

Meyers and James Corden could hardly contain their incredulity.

“Tough on Russia? Who’s he kidding? The only thing in Russia Trump has been tough on is their hotel bedsheets.” — JAMES CORDEN

“Oh my God, does he really think he’s fooling anyone? Trump is like a magician who wears short-sleeve shirts.” — SETH MEYERS

The Punchiest Punchlines (Barnes & Noble Edition)

“Sean Spicer has written a new book about his time in the White House, called ‘The Briefing.’ If you want to see him, he’ll be at Barnes & Noble tomorrow — from 10 a.m. until his shift ends.” — JIMMY FALLON

“Two women from Minnesota are seeking to file discrimination charges after the police were called on them for breast-feeding in a public pool. Even worse, their kids were charged with illegally bringing in an outside beverage.” — SETH MEYERS

The Bits Worth Watching

Meyers took an in-depth look at the work thus far of Betsy DeVos, the education secretary. He wasn’t impressed.

”Welcome back to the Trump News Network, which is fairer and more balanceder than any other news network.”

What We’re Excited About on Wednesday Night

Alec Baldwin and Jimmy Fallon have, well, a special rapport. They’ll certainly get into some shenanigans on “The Tonight Show” on Wednesday.

Also, Check This Out

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“Writing the show, I think I was insane,” Hannah Gadsby said, adding, “I had so much just suddenly crystallize in my head, and I just needed to get it out.”CreditMolly Matalon para The New York Times

Hannah Gadsby’s “Nanette” is the most talked-about comedy act in years. Its author, our reporter writes, “is angry, and she is amazing.”

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