It must have felt like déjà-vu for this year’s ANDAM Grand Prize winner, Antonin Tron of Atlein; in 2016, he took home ANDAM’s First Collections Prize. “Of course, we thought, ‘Why would they give it to us again when they could have given it to someone else,” he said from the upper terrace of the Ministry of Culture and Communication, which overlooks the Palais Royal. “But it’s also a statement of support for us, and we’re lucky.” Tron’s previous prize, now called the Creative Brand Prize, was awarded to Ludovic de Saint Sernin while Stéphanie d’Heygere won the Fashion Accessories Prize for her namesake jewelry brand. Colorifix, which develops environmentally-conscious dyeing processes, received the Innovation Prize.
Following the cocktail, all three designers expressed varying amounts of amazement, modesty and gratitude. Collectively, their experience in established houses name checks the French fashion firmament: Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Balenciaga (Tron); Balmain, Saint Laurent (de Saint Sernin); Maison Margiela, Dior (d’Heygere).
“I have learned so many things working in these houses – good things and bad things. There’s a European culture—and by that, I mean the sense that clothes carry certain values; and I think this is something very important that I want to carry on,” said Tron, who won 250,000 euros. “But at the same time, the way I construct, it’s very much about architecture; the clothes are not constraining; they’re very easy.”
Drawing an insider-y industry crowd, the event also provided an occasion for Françoise Nyssen, France’s Minister of Culture to reiterate an announcement made in January that an additional 300,000 euros will be allocated towards a forthcoming project that will accompany emerging French brands through their development. “This sector of our heritage and our history remains the most effervescent and fertile in creation,” she said. “We have a level of talent here that the world watches and envies.”
De Saint Sernin, who will receive 100,000 euros, echoed this sense of French pride. “I keep saying I’m a French designer based in Paris,” he said, a weighty Swarovski crystal award cradled in the crook of his arm. “I started my brand with just a little savings and help from my mom, and I figured that if I want to keep it going the way it’s going–and it’s going really well–I need to have a bit of extra money to make it happen. And obviously, the mentoring is going to be great.”
Pierre-Yves Roussel, Group Executive Committee Member, who will mentor Tron over the next two years, described the designer as “very talented with a lot of expertise,” and went on to praise the designer pool more broadly. “There’s a high level of creative talent out there right now; that’s the magic of it.” he said. “What I always say is even though someone may not have won, they should re-apply. When you’re a finalist, you’re already a winner. Sure, if you win, you get the money. But you always get the visibility. And it helps you benchmark where you are.”
ANDAM founder Nathalie Dufour described the fourreen finalists as “very open and eclectic yet very rich in spirit,” noting that they represented a spectrum from streetwear to couture-inspired. “What you see is this passion for creation.” Of Tron’s successive wins, she said, “What’s unique about ANDAM is that it’s truly an ecosystem that anchors and accompanies. Now he has this maturity that is interesting a jumping off point; and plus, he has a vision that is very couture. He is designer who goes against the mainstream.”
Indeed, it is a testament to both Tron’s talent and ANDAM’s dual-structure of both monetary compensation and mentoring that his brand profile and business have risen in such a short time. And he’s not the only one; last year’s Grand Prize laureate, Glenn Martens of Y/Project, has hired a head of production and a head of sales while growing his studio. Sales have increased by 50 percent. “The collections are more developed, more quirky, more difficult to understand,” he said of the difference, year over year. “But when you see the pieces, they’re so easy to wear and that’s because of the team. Before it was just me doing all of this.”
Asked what advice he would give this year’s winners, Martens was quick to reply that he had already done so with D’heygere who he considers a best friend and who has designed jewelry for Y/Project, as well as Tron, who he knows from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. “I was on the phone with them last night; they don’t need any advice,” he quipped.
And with guests gradually departing to seize the summery Friday night, D’heygere was still being congratulated by those sticking around. How did she plan to celebrate? “I organized a small gathering for my friends and people I have met along the way regardless of whether I won just to thank them,” she said from the terrace where, incredibly, her earrings were glowing from the setting sun. “It’s feeling I won’t soon forget. It’s really awesome.”
https://www.vogue.com/article/andam-fashion-prize-paris-cocktail-party-2018
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